The road turned to dirt but was still pretty good... to start with!
And so by slow degrees things deteriorated... but never to the obvious point that I should not proceed (My guide line on that is that I am prepared to continue along the path as long as I feel that I could turn the bike around at any point and ride back the way Id come in... I learned this the hard way on my first ride through Mexico :) )
Anyway, after an hour or so of the slow degradation I found myself cautiously making my way along a rather steep and very rough and rocky mountain "donkey track" at about walking pace...
And that continued (up hill and down dale) for about another hour and a half,,, with things getting slightly better and then worse again, but never serious enough for me to turn back.
And then the mountain track finally ended and I found myself on an improving packed earth track in the valley bottom... But I was not out of the woods yet (literally)...
I came to a bridge over a small river and there were a couple of local motorbike riders on their little 150cc bikes with big loads of cargo coming up out of the river bed onto the road way, and they said I should turn off the road there because it was washed out a bit further along...
So, off the road and back onto a muddy/sandy "gout track" through the river bed and the thickets etc... It lasted another half hour before I made it back to a decent dirt road and then 10 more minutes to get back to pavement... Pheeeew! :)
Past the locals houses... mud and thatch huts.
A big (50cm long) tortoise that had been harassed by the local kids and had a damaged shell... he was trying to cross the paved road, so as usual I stopped and helped him across to safety/
But ahhh what a nice paved road it was... It climbed back up into the hills with all sorts of lovely twists and turns, and nary a pothole or obstruction on the way and hardly even any traffic in either direction.
But the light was fading so I stopped short of my intended destination and found another crappy hotel in a mid-sized town for the night... My motorbike got to spend the night indoors too.